The way to remove gum from leather is just as easy as removing it from another fabric: use ice. Ice should be placed on the gum, until it hardens. Afterwards, the gum can be gently peeled away. However, it is important to remember when removing gum from leather, sharp objects will scratch the surface of the leather.

If you live in a cold climate, salt applied to the roads and sidewalks can potentially cause stains. To remove salt stains, a mild solution of 75 percent vinegar to 25 percent water should be used. In the beginning, complete a "spot test." After the vinegar solution has been found mild enough, use a cotton ball to gently wipe away the salt stains from the leather garment. Allow the leather to air dry naturally.

Leather specialty stores sell special products designed to care for your leather jackets. You can use a leather lotion to keep your jacket soft, leather wipes make a quick clean-up easier, and leather protector helps keep your leather jacket safe in winter months. One of the best tips of all to keep your leather jacket in good condition is to wear them regularly. If you have to put them in storage, make sure it's a well-ventilated area of your home.

Leather specialty stores sell special products designed to care for your leather jackets. You can use a leather lotion to keep your jacket soft, leather wipes make a quick clean-up easier, and leather protector helps keep your leather jacket safe in winter months. One of the best tips of all to keep your leather jacket in good condition is to wear them regularly. If you have to put them in storage, make sure it's a well-ventilated area of your home.

Full Grain leather is animal skin prepared for use by removing the hair and tanning; the smooth, grain side of the hide is the strongest.

Suede is tanned leather of calf, kid, cowhide, etc., with the flesh side buffed into a nap; true suede will have smooth or “full grain” leather on one side.

Nubuck is tanned leather similar to suede, but with the nap on the grain side.

Split is tanned hide which has had the grain removed or “split” off. Some suede is made from a “split” in which the full grain is removed for another use. The remaining leather has no grain and looks like suede on both sides. This is not a particularly strong type of leather.

We think upkeep is part of the fun of having nice leather stuff. If you follow the manufacturer’s directions on most cleaning and conditioning products, you won’t wreck your leather. But if you’re not a real do-it-yourselfer, your leather might end up looking less beautiful than you’d hoped for. Some tasks like washing suede or re-coloring your favorite jacket may be a bit daunting. If you’re uncertain about how to do something, opt for professional service.

Probably. The white stains are most likely due to salt. The sooner you neutralize the salt, the better. Salt can actually scar the leather if left too long.

You need to neutralize the salt using a mild solution of vinegar and water. To do this properly you should get the entire shoe/boot wet so that you don’t create additional water marks. This is especially true for suede and nubuck. Use a soft- bristled brush to wet the footwear. Don’t soak it, just get it wet. Then scrub the salt-stained areas. Pat the footwear dry with a towel or other absorbent cloth. Use a light-colored cloth on light-colored footwear to avoid color "bleeding" from the cloth to the footwear.
Allow footwear to dry thoroughly with plenty of air – No HEAT!

For suede and nubuck footwear simply brush with a brass or nylon suede brush or an "eraser" made for suede and nubuck. This should soften and restore the nap. You’ll probably want to apply a water and stain protector. You'll find a variety of products on the market for this purpose.
For smooth leather, you'll have to restore the oils that were removed during the washing process. You can do this by applying a conditioner or waterproofer. A variety of products exist for this purpose. Most waterproofers will also condition the leather, but not all conditioners will waterproof.

Not usually although some leather items and cork footbeds can be destroyed by too much water. Getting leather wet is usually not as much of a problem as getting it dry. Drying rules to follow: lots of air, no heat. Don't put wet leather near a fire or in an oven to dry out. Heat can cause excessive dryness leading to cracking. Heat can also loosen adhesives and shrink some types of soling. Extended periods of wetness will usually be less harmful than too much heat.

Yes. Birkenstock soling material is great because it's flexible, durable and light weight. It is, however, very susceptible to heat. Excessive heat will cause the sole material to expand and then shrink as it cools. Please be careful not to expose your Birkenstocks to the heat of campfires, fireplaces, radiators, closed cars parked in the sun, or any other areas that may become very hot for extended periods of time.
If your soles shrink – don’t despair. We can replace them.

Leather is a natural product and mold and mildew (fungus) can begin to grow on it under the right conditions – and it doesn’t take long! The mildew can usually be removed by washing the leather with a soft cloth wrung out of dilute alcohol (1 cup denatured or rubbing alcohol to 1 cup water). If mildew remains, clean with a mild soap solution (dilute solution of dish-washing liquid and water will work) or saddle soap. Rinse well and allow to dry with plenty of fresh air.

The loss of color at corners of cases and around edges of jackets is normal. Oftentimes a good conditioning will bring back most of the color. Sometimes, however, the color must be restored to get your piece looking great again. We sell conditioner and color restorer if you want to tackle the job yourself or we can do it for you. It is often very difficult if not impossible to restore the color on light colored leathers.

Yes. Use a dilute solution of dish washing liquid or laundry detergent and water ( ¼ teaspoon to 2 qts water). To do this properly you must get the entire boot wet so that you don’t create water marks. Use a soft- bristled brush to wet the footwear. Don’t soak it, just get it wet. Then scrub the dirty areas using as much suds as you can work up. Use the brush to rinse with clear water. Pat the boots dry with a towel or other absorbent cloth. Use a light-colored cloth on light-colored boots to avoid color "bleeding" from the cloth to the boots. Allow footwear to dry thoroughly with plenty of air – no HEAT!

Depends on how much use and abuse they get. If leather goods are getting dirty regularly, they should be cleaned regularly. Use saddle soap for shoes and boots or a cleaner like Lexol for finer leather like purses and jackets. Use soap and water on suede per the directions above. Grit and grime can grind into the leather and cause breakdown of the leather and stitching. Condition the leather after washing. Be careful not to over-condition, the leather shouldn’t feel loose and greasy. Too much oil can cause weakening of the leather and stitching. If your leather isn’t getting dirty, a light coating of conditioner twice a year should be plenty.